A terrifying wake up by four alarms is a sure way to get one out of bed. Two cell phones, a clock, and watch, all each others backups. Not trusting if our cell phones would automatically change the time back an hour for day light savings.
Starting the day at 4:45 in the morning is always a little tough, but when you know you're headed for the water every second of sleep you lose is worth it. Stumble to the bathroom, throw on some pants, boil water for coffee, and Kim's already making oatmeal with dates, there was frost outside of every surface. On every blade of crunchy grass. The two of us standing in the drive way, boards on the lawn, feet in wool socks waiting in the dark for the guys.
On the road by 5:30, out of the city, a sigh of relief.
I can breath.
Sing alongs starting soon after the sleep's been rubbed out of half closed eyes, no sign of first light until Jordan River.
Onward along the twisting paved path through rainforest to find a gravel parking lot filled to the brim. It was going to be a busy day in the water, with swell on a weekend it wasn't exactly a surprise.
Suited up with boards underarms, the decent to sea level was made with quick feet, and in time for sunrise. This could have been the end to the day and I would have been completely satisfied.
This was my first time at this wave, I had only ever surfed at other parts of the beach before. The swell was great, the water was crowded, more so then I have ever experienced, which was intimidating at first, trying to figure out how the line up was working, and how and where this wave breaks. The guys here are more aggressive then I'm used too, and after awhile of letting everyone else go for everything I got into the pocket and took some of my own. This wave was nice and easy to paddle into, but after a few nose-dives (my specialty) I got a nice right I rode to the beach. The number of people about doubled and it was getting cold waiting in the water, so we headed back up to change in the cold air, and attempt to warm numb toes and fingers with coffee from a hot Thermos, and packed snacks.
Layered in sweaters, scarfs and jackets, returning to the beach, we watched the numerous collisions and party waves.
We met friends from the Surfrider Foundation for a beach clean up, and found a ridiculous amount of beer cans. Kim and I did a 50 m transect of beach face, and scoured this area for the garbage analysis.
Again we went up to the parking lot, this time getting in the truck and headed back to the city with the heater on, and finally having feeling coming back to my fingers and toes.
I hold my breath.