It's been in these days of past I have had such enjoyment, having been consumed by the ocean's crash, and conversation with most excellent company. Again adventuring I have been with my partner in crime, to the west and south shores of this island rock. With our ever unfolding addiction to adventure, we came out of the forest, and into the sharp salt of the ocean's bluegreen, and played in it's mechanical waves.
Kim and I again have been off having the time of our lives, taking full advantage of the short break between our winter and spring school semesters.
Last weekend we took off for Tofino at the "Crack O'Dawn", literally, we left at 5:30am and arrived on the west coast by around 10 in the morning. In the 5 days and 4 nights spent camping at Green Point we managed to be in a box parade, have a beach fire followed by a beach sauna and polar bear swim, surf with great people, have an impressive camp fire dinner by the "Cast Iron King", visit almost all the beaches in Tofino, walk in the forest, and watch amazing sunsets, all with our amazingly awesome new friends who really made this weekend fantastic!
This was the first time I have ever been surfing, and I absolutely loved it! As soon as I caught my first wave I was hooked. Paddling with tired arms for an oncoming wave, feeling it's power push behind you as your board slides forward, finally catching the wave and popping up to your feet, and harnessing the oceans mechanical energy is a rush I want to experience again and again. Mind you I spent most of my time with more salt water in my nasal cavity then under my board, after the first day out I started to get the hang of it, and managed to get my feet on the board in the whitewash.
The second and third day we went out further and started attempting the green, unbroken waves which was much more challenging, and again I found the ocean to be a giant neti pot. But with sinuses clear I manged to catch some waves and have an amazing time on the water. Just paddling out past the breaking waves, although difficult and tiresome, is incredibly enjoyable, bobbing up and down in the passing waves and watching the shore from a completely different prospective was brilliant.
I find this sport incredibly beautiful and at the same time totally badass. Watching the experienced surfers amazes me; there is skill required to glide so elegantly along the surface of a wave, yet the transfer of natural energy between water and board is so raw. The physics behind this sport alone fascinates me, and leaves me to study the mechanics of waves and tides and I'm left in awe at the fact it's all possible by a celestial body orbiting us.
This activity combines all of my favourite things: The ocean, science, sport, and incredible people and I am not sure why I didn't try it sooner.
