Again I have escaped away to the West Coast of the "Big" Island.
Oh how Tofino has my heart in more ways then one.
I had the most amazing surf thus far, period. I actually surfed-for real- and I mean dropping in on the face of green waves, not just being pushed around by white wash, or catching waves and popping up in the trough.
I can still feel the rush of momentum of the board beneath me, as I slid down that first wave, and thought :
"Oh... This is what surfing is."
This one wave was the start of an irrevocable relationship between the ocean and I.
Comparing my first lesson to present day, I feel I've improved so much in the last 4 months since I started this wavy love affair. Not only the physical aspect of surfing, but the metal changes I've experienced have reshaped my ability to let the ocean into my life fully. Growing up on the coast I have always had a close bond to the great body of salty H2O that has surrounded me since birth. I love being on the water, on the shore, but always had this fear of being in the vast marine world. Learning about all the beautiful and terrifying creatures that live in the cold depths, and my (irrational) fear of whales, has kept me out for far to long, and surfing has helped me break the surface. It may have something to do with the thick neoprene barrier between my fear and I, but with board under arm, I've been able to overcome a fear and be flooded from the oceans high tide. I even saw whales for the first time while out in the water breaching, and flapping their tails far off shore, and I was okay with it, even more, I was excited and wanted to see more.